In Japan, the car auction grading system provides a standardized way to evaluate the condition of vehicles being sold at auctions. Each vehicle is inspected, and a grade is assigned based on its overall condition. The grades range from S to 1, with additional notations for specific issues. However over the past decade there have been many instances where the grade determined by an assessor has not quite been in line with the actual condition of the vehicle. This is why it is now more critical than ever to purchase a vehicle that has been inspected in person.  This is not to say all vehicles are incorrectly graded, so please refer below to what each grade typically means:

• Grade S: This grade is reserved for brand new cars with very low mileage, often under 10,000 km. These vehicles are in immaculate condition, similar to a new car off the showroom floor.
• Grade 5: This grade is given to cars that are in exceptional condition with very low mileage, typically under 50,000 km. The vehicles have been very well maintained and show minimal signs of wear.
• Grade 4.5: Vehicles in this category are in very good condition with low to moderate mileage, generally under 100,000 km. These cars have minor wear and tear but are still very clean and well-maintained.
• Grade 4: Cars with this grade are in good condition with moderate mileage, usually under 150,000 km. They may have some minor cosmetic imperfections or signs of wear but are mechanically sound.
• Grade 3.5: Vehicles in this range show more signs of use and may have higher mileage, typically under 200,000 km. These cars have noticeable wear and tear but are still in decent mechanical condition.
• Grade 3: This grade is assigned to cars with higher mileage and more significant wear and tear. These vehicles may have some cosmetic issues or minor mechanical problems but are still operable.
• Grade 2: Cars with substantial wear and tear, high mileage, and potential mechanical issues. These vehicles will require some maintenance or repairs.
• Grade 1: This grade is given to vehicles that have serious issues, such as major accidents, extensive corrosion, or significant mechanical problems. These cars are often sold for parts or major restoration projects.
• Grade R: Vehicles that have undergone repairs, often due to accidents. The extent and quality of the repairs can vary, and this grade indicates that the car has a history of significant repair work.
• Grade RA: This is similar to Grade R but denotes minor accident damage that has been repaired.

In addition to the overall grade, auction sheets provide detailed information about the car’s condition, including notes on exterior and interior imperfections, mechanical issues, and any repairs that have been made.

A – Scratch

A1 – is a tiny scratch, and generally you would expect this to buff out or be an easy touch up.
A2 – is a medium scratch through the top layer of paint, and won’t easily be hidden.
A3 – is a deep scratch such as a serious scrape or intentional key mark, and will definitely require paintwork if you want to fully address it.

U -Pin dent *Only a small dent such as you would pick up in the carpark.
U1 to U4 are used to denote the size of the dent, with 1 being the smallest.

B – Larger dents
These are more serious than pin dents. They are quite noticeable dents and range from B1 to B4.

G – Chip
You might see a G, X or even an A marked on the windscreen. This usually indicates a small stone chip or scratch and often these are quite small, the size of a pin head or so, and not easily visible.

They are the sort of things most cars pick up through normal use and if you see them noted it doesn’t mean the windscreen needs replacing.

Y – Cracks
Y1 to Y4. Usually in bodykits or lights and often not a major issue as repair or replacement is fairly simple.

P – Paint damage
P1 to P4. Fading, scratches or discolouration from sun damage, polishing, peeling, grazing or poor paintwork.

S / C Rust / Corrosion
S and C1 to C4 are generally used.

An S or C1 on the body can mean a small stone chip has some surface rust or there is a spot of rust on the edge of a sunroof which might be easily addressed.

In other cases S noted in the negative comments section could indicate extensive underbody rust. C indicated on the wheel arches is a sign there is serious corrosion due to use in snowy areas.

W1 W2 or W3 is a wavy or orange peel paint finish, but is subjective and entirely dependent on the inspectors judgement.

Unlike most dealers, brokers and resellers that use a third party to inspect vehicles in Japan, we are actually based in Japan. We physically inspect, photograph and document the condition of the vehicle so you know exactly what you’ll be purchasing. We attend USS auctions on a weekly basis, particularly USS Yokohama (Tuesdays), USS Tokyo (Thursdays). 

Australia – Any right hand drive vehicle that is over 25 years old, can be imported into Australia. It is also possible to import left hand drive vehicles over 25 years old. However, depending on the state they may only be eligible for club permit until they reach 30 years old (please enquire with your states road authority for detailed requirements). For vehicles less than 25 years old, they must be listed on the Federal Government’s Special Enthusiast Vehicle Scheme (SEVS), which currently includes over 250 cars.

SEVS list

The cars we have listed are advertised at FOB price. FOB is the vehicle price and costs associated with delivering it to a port in Japan. FOB pricing does not include shipping fees (from a Japan), taxes, compliance costs or broker fees, but we do provide an estimate for each vehicle. 

We can assist you through the import process or allow you to use any reputable import agent of your choice. Naturally different brokers quote different amounts for their services which will ultimately impact your total costs.